Daily Diary
Getting there - 9/9/05
David and I left home in London to the cheers of Wendy, Leigh, plus my nephew Charlie with all his classmates. It was a short and steady ride across London to Paddington Station before boarding the train for our 5 hour journey down to Penzance. On the train we met Graham from Berwick-upon-Tweed who was also going to do the E2E but would be completing it in 3 weeks. We stayed the night with my friend David Sidnell in St. Just, where I dumped some things as it felt like I had too much when riding there from the station, despite packing light (or so I thought).
Day 1 - 10/9/05 Lands End - Bodmin
After a hearty breakfast we said goodbye to Dave and quickly rode the 6 miles down to Lands End, arriving there just before 9.30 am. We both signed in the book, but then found there were no signs on the famous landmark post (the photo booth wasn't open until 10 am). I took some pictures for 4 fellow end to enders and their support driver at the post, and they then did the same for us. Then it was off up the A30 to Penzance for a brief stop to stock up on food before heading on-wards for our destination of Bodmin. We popped into Redruth for some lunch but, like many places to come, it was uphill to get out of there and back onto the A30.
We had approximately 2 hours of rain from midday on-wards and by the end of the day David's gloves were starting to disintegrate as they were so wet from the spray off my back wheel.
The Bodmin bedroom
Todays mileage: 59.9 miles 36 mph max
Day 2 - 11/9/05 Bodmin - Langtree
Out of Bodmin and back up on to the A30, we went across Bodmin Moor (which was very bleak and windy) to Launceston where we encountered our first really serious hills, then it was up the A388 to Holsworthy and finally we were in Devon. I lost the spare keys to our bike locks at some point today, I think it was when we were taking photos near the county border. The weather brightened up in the afternoon, so we had a pleasant ride to Langtree where we will be staying at my sister-in-law's, in-laws.
After arriving at Langtree I checked both the bikes over only to find I have a front wheel puncture plus 2 broken spokes on the rear wheel. David dumped some of his gear here to lighten the load as an old leg injury was starting to flare up. Thanks to Rita and Syl for putting us up today, and not forgetting Jake (who had a PS2, so I didn't see David for most of the evening).
Todays mileage: 52.89 miles 34 mph max
Day 3 - 12/9/05 Langtree - Wiveliscombe
We had no luck getting my spokes replaced in Gt. Torrington so I decided to wait until we get to Taunton, however at the bottom of a 25% hill a third spoke broke, so they would have to be sorted out soon as I was seriously worried about the wheel buckling. On arriving in South Molton we were directed to Michael Fook's bike shop, but he's not back until after lunch so we'll have about a 3 hour wait. Luckily it was a very warm and sunny day so we sat in the main square while eating our lunch and chatted to some fellow cyclists who were doing a 120+ mile round tour from Taunton and back. My 3 spokes were replaced and the wheel trued, all for £9 (plus 2 free spokes, that's service).
The hills today have been enormous, particularly the long climb into Bampton, but then the views have also been spectacular and the weather has been very hot. Exhausted, we finally pull in at Wiveliscombe and stay at the Bear Inn where I had a marvellous cottage pie and David had a huge burger and chips, all of which were made from local produce.
Todays mileage: 52.91 miles 40 mph max
Day 4 - 13/9/05 Wiveliscombe - Chepstow
With the worst of the Devon hills behind us we made very fast progress into Taunton where I picked up some cash and got a pair of gloves and a leg support bandage for David. The rest of the day consisted of a nice long flat bit where we made up a lot of lost ground (except passing through the Mendips) as we headed for todays target, Chepstow.
At Brockley we used the Avon cycleway to reach the Avonmouth Bridge (M5). After crossing it we decided to continue following the Avon cycleway but, after 30 minutes of winding paths that were heading away from the Severn bridge, going through some dodgy looking areas, and then crossing the motorways twice while seemingly heading back into Bristol, - we got off that as soon as possible. Finally we were on to the mad, bad, and fast A403 and eventually crossed over the Severn Bridge and into Wales. I found I had yet another broken spoke (sigh), but it was getting late and there was nowhere open to get it repaired.
Todays mileage: 82.34 miles 28.5 mph max Mostly flat terrain today.
Day 5 - 14/9/05 Chepstow - Leominster
The day started with a light drizzle and we had our usual hard ride uphill to get out of Chepstow, which didn't help David's sore leg, but then the weather took a turn for the good and we were having a really nice ride as we followed the meandering A466 along beside the river Wye and through the Wye valley, passing by Tintern Abbey and finally on to Monmouth.
At Monmouth we made the mistake of continuing on the A466 to get to Hereford, which had loads of wicked hills that David really struggled on and they just made his leg even worse. David picked up his first puncture today, and I finally got my broken spoke replaced in Hereford at Phil Prothero cycles, which he did for free (which was very nice of him). With the long stop causing David's leg to stiffen up we then continued very slowly along the A49 to Leominster, stopping for the night at the YHA there.
Todays mileage: 54.91 miles 41 mph max
Day 6 - 15/9/05 Leominster - Alsager
David's leg was still quite sore in the morning but he felt able to carry on to our next stop at Alsager as it would be mostly flat terrain today. It was to be a long day with some light afternoon rain, which started just as we came out of McDonald's (David was suffering withdrawal symptoms) in Shrewsbury and continued right through until Whitchurch, then the heavens opened up and we got thoroughly soaked and both ended up frozen cold.
We had just passed through Crewe and it was now getting late plus, David was now having serious problems with his leg, so I phoned our hosts Martin and Jane to come and rescue us for the last couple of miles. Martin said the B5077 which we were cycling down had frequent accidents as it was unlit and very twisty, it certainly looked dangerous in the dark with the continuing downpour, so we were glad not to be cycling along it. On arrival at Martin's we had a luxurious soak in a steaming hot bath while Jane prepared our evening meal and also did all our washing for us.
Martin and Jane, our hosts in Alsager
Todays mileage: 88.17 miles 26 mph max Another flat day!!
Day 7 - 16/9/05 Alsager - Preston
In contrast to yesterdays deluge, it was a bright sunny morning when we left Martin and Jane, but almost straight away David's leg became really sore and now his other leg was also aching a lot under the strain of all the extra work. After 2 hours we had only done about 9 miles and he was hardly able to walk up the hills, let alone cycle another 530+ miles, so we decided he should go home. It was a tearful departure as I put him on the train at Holmes Chapel, but it was the best thing for David.
I was determined to carry on and finish the trip, so I pushed really hard to reach Preston, going via the toll bridge over the Manchester ship canal and passing through Leigh (which is also my daughters name, so I just had to go through there).
My bike computer recorded a 53 mph max but, to be honest, I really don't remember any huge downhill today (perhaps as my mind was on other things), so I must assume it was still damp from the torrential downpour we had yesterday (my gear indicators were misted all day long too) and that it was just a spurious reading.
Todays mileage: 59.95 miles 53 mph!! max
Day 8 - 17/9/05 Preston - Carlisle
It was another dry and bright day with only some light winds when I left Preston, so far the weather has been good with only one day of torrential rain. I was bloody annoyed with myself for allowing David to carry on while he was in obvious pain, and so it was with some anger that I pushed hard along the A6. I didn't even stop to get any mint cake when passing through Kendal :-) and only just noticed the sign saying that Shap Pass was over 1400ft high. Going over the Shap Pass it got quite cold and it also started to drizzle, I had no idea where I was on the A6 as my map wasn't detailed enough and at one point I seriously started to wonder, "what the hell was I doing here?", as yet another hill loomed in front of me, but shortly after cresting the top I started a long freewheel descent into Shap itself and my gloomy mood soon descended into my subconscious as well.
I reached Penrith but it was soon clear that there were no B&B vacancies here, so I would have to go on to Carlisle. I phoned Wendy to arrange a bed at the YHA there, but she called back to say they only opened in July/August so I would have to find a B&B. I finally got a room in a large house near Carleton, immediately outside of Carlisle. It was run by a lovely lady called Pauline who not only made me an evening meal but also did my washing for me and then hung it all over the radiators to dry.
Todays mileage: 87.74 miles 32.5 mph max
Day 9 - 18/9/05 Carlisle - Walkerburn
During breakfast I watched a red squirrel also eating his, which Pauline said was a regular visitor. I had a quick stop in Carlisle to get some cash and then I went into Scotland on the A7 which, as it was Sunday, had very little traffic on it with hardly any lorries, so I could enjoy the view of the forests while watching out for the deer (I didn't spot any though).
One strange thing happened today, I had my head down just watching the road about 6 to 8 feet ahead of me for quite some time, but when I eventually looked up the mountain directly in front of me seemed to be receding. Obviously it was an optical illusion but was a bit alarming as it looked like I was going backwards!
I stopped for a while at the Johnnie Armstrong Gallery just outside of Teviothead and chatted to Brian Moffatt, a very knowledgeable and passionate goldsmith who had some stunning jewellery for sale. My next stop was in Hawick for a spot of lunch and to get some muscle rub as my right knee had started to hurt. I then carried on to Selkirk where I started looking for accommodation but there was a vintage car rally going on there, so none of the B&B's had any vacancies (the recurring theme on this trip). I eventually stopped just short of Peebles, staying at the George Hotel in Walkerburn (who kindly donated £10 to the charity). Todays weather: it was overcast but dry.
I won't say where this sign was (it was not in the George Hotel, but somewhere else in Scotland) - the curries must have been bloody hot!!
Todays mileage: 73.96 miles 34.5 mph max
Day 10 - 19/9/05 Walkerburn - Pitlochry
I continued on the A7/A703 into Penicuik where I stopped for a bite to eat, but they had a local holiday so almost all of the shops were closed except for the Somerfields, then it was onward to Edinburgh where, while passing Redford Barracks, I heard bagpipes for the one and only time while in Scotland. After skirting around the edge of Edinburgh by following the RR cycle signs (I only got lost once), I went across the Forth road bridge and then up through Inverkeithing and Hill of Beath.
I decided to try to make it to Pitlochry when I heard that the SNP would be holding their party conference in Aviemore on the 21st (which was my planned stop tomorrow) and, knowing my luck in finding accommodation, it would be better to pass through there on the 20th and keep going on to Inverness.
I had a fair amount of head winds today with approximately 2 hours of fairly heavy rain (as predicted by the BBC) but, just after the rain stopped, I was on a glorious 2 mile freewheel down through the canopy of Glen Farg Forest on the B996/A912 and then in and out of the wonderfully named "Bridge Of Earn" which lead me into Perth. I grabbed a bite to eat in Perth and then pushed on to Pitlochry.
Todays mileage: 97.89 miles 34 mph max
Day 11 - 20/9/05 Pitlochry - Inverness
I got a very early start today as I would have a lot of miles to cover, staying on the A9 through Pass Of Drumochter, Kingussie, Aviemore, Tomatin and finally reaching Inverness. There were lots of mountains close to the road, but the inclines were mostly long with gentle rises.
It was another glorious sunny day, perfect in fact for taking loads of photos of the wonderful Scottish landscape that I was traveling through, but some idiot (me) scuppered that by forgetting to put the camera battery on charge last night, and it died almost as soon as I switched it on.
At Inverness I stayed in a B&B called "Kindeace" run by Enrica, which had a very eclectic collection of wall hangings, pictures and ornaments. She also did all my washing and dried it for me too.
Todays mileage: 96.23 miles 31.5 mph max
Day 12 - 21/9/05 Inverness - Helmsdale
"It's 120 miles to John O' Groats, I've got a full camera battery, half a pack of jelly babies, it's dark, and I'm wearing sunglasses - HIT IT!"
(apologies to Blues Brothers fans).
I'm now starting to smell a bit like a hospital ward, what with the muscle rub on the leg and copious amounts of Sudocrem on my developing saddle sore. I have decided to change the route plan, instead of going on the A949/A836 to Tongue I shall be following the A9 straight up the east coast. The BBC's prediction of heavy rain for the day ended up with just half an hour of light stuff in the morning, after which Scotland did sunny for the rest of the day - lovely.
Arriving in Brora I purchased some chips which came in a flimsy hamburger carton, but when I bumped down the pavement I dropped all but a few of them (aaaarrrggghhh!!!), so instead I had a couple of homemade current pies from the Co-Op which were really nice (I've just noticed how much I'm focusing on food in these diary entries).
I stopped for the night in Helmsdale, where I had a fish supper at the famous "La Mirage" (I later found out that the 4 guys I met at Lands End also ate there that night). I then had to walk right out to the harbour before I could get any signal on the mobile (where would we be without mobiles on a trip like this?) as the only phone box had been disconnected by BT due to underuse.
At last, a road sign showing John o' Groats. This one was just outside Inverness.
Todays mileage: 69.26 miles 33 mph max Todays terrain was mostly flat.
Day 13 - 22/9/05 Helmsdale - John O' Groats
The climb out of Helmsdale was tough, feeling more like the end of the day instead of the beginning, and it was being made harder (I found out half way up) by my lock being jammed against the back brake cable!!. I met Ben and Sam on the road, two lads who were also from London, but they had taken 3 weeks to do the E2E and were going on to the Orkneys after finishing.
There was only one more major obstacle between me and JOG, and that was the infamous down and up at Berridale. I descended the hill at 43 mph despite having the brakes full on and just made the first right hand bend by scraping the edge of the road, only to then have to take the sharp left hander in the middle of the road (praying that nothing comes the other way). I then survived the following sharp right but had to walk uphill the last bit as all the momentum was lost and I was just too knackered. I saw several Tornado aircraft today and was "buzzed" by one of them on the A99 when he came off the North Sea and flew at treetop height right over my bloody head!!
Arrived in Wick just after midday, so I found a B&B and decided to go the last 17 miles to JOG and the finish. As I approached the John O' Groats village sign I was clapped and cheered by the 4 guys I had seen in Lands End at the beginning, which was very nice of them. After taking each others photos here we all cycled to the signpost where we did more of the same. I then signed the book in the hotel and started heading back to Wick. On my way back along the A99, Ben and Sam passed me in the opposite direction on their final few miles to JOG, and shortly after this the same 4 guys (in their van this time), stopped and gave me a lift back to Wick.
Dianne, the landlady in Wick, also did my washing for me too (as many of the B&B owners have) and I found some more of those delicious current pies, so I'm well stocked up for the train journey to Inverness tomorrow.
Made it!!
Todays mileage: 62.01 miles 43 mph max My evening meal today was Haggis and chips.
Coming home.
23/9/05
The original plan was to cycle back down to Inverness as I wasn't flying to Luton until early Sunday morning (25/9) but my leg/back/bum were all hurting and I thought "sod it", so instead I took the 12.37 pm train from Wick to Inverness, while the bike went in the back of a van. The driver said this was the last week of the free van service this year. We eventually got in to Inverness (via everywhere else in the Highlands, it seemed) just after 5 pm and, unbelievably, I quickly found a B&B as I already knew where they were.
24/9/05
I spent my free day in Inverness scrounging a bike box for the flight, riding a 24 mile round trip to Loch Ness (where I saw a man on a moped with several really long fishing rods protruding over his handlebars!!), shopping for gifts, trying to find some more current pies (no luck, they must only be available in the far north of Scotland) and finally, getting a bus to the airport where I was intending to sleep for the night as I had a 7 am check-in. Unfortunately the staff there kicked me out just after 6 pm as the airport closes overnight, so I had to catch the last bus back to Inverness, find another B&B, and arrange a 6.30 am taxi to the airport.
25/9/05
I was up early for the taxi and on to the Easyjet flight down to Luton (which only cost £12.98 + £10 for the bike!!), then I just had to reassemble my bike and take a leisurely 30 mile ride back home to London in glorious sunshine on a Sunday afternoon.
It was easy to tell I was now back in "civilisation", as the vehicles were speeding past me with only millimeters to spare - quite a shock after 2 weeks of quiet roads and mostly courteous drivers (yes, there are some).
Flying out from Inverness
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